1. Home
  2. Blog
  3. Polo & apparel design
Polo & apparel design

How Many Colours Should a Repeat Pattern Have for Screen Print or Sublimation?

By Harinda Fernando · August 5, 2026

Not every printing method handles colour the same way, and the method you’re planning to use should shape the design before it’s finalized, not get discovered as a constraint after the artwork’s already done and everyone’s already approved it, expecting no further changes.

Screen printing means fewer colours, by design

Screen printing works by pushing ink through a separate stencil, or screen, for each individual colour in the design being reproduced. That means every additional colour adds real cost and production complexity, since each one needs its own screen and its own pass through the press during the actual printing run. Screen-printed designs typically stay limited to somewhere between one and six colours, specifically because of this cost structure built into the method itself, and patterns designed for screen printing generally need to work within that limitation from the very start of the design process, using flat, distinct colour areas rather than gradients or subtle blending that screen printing simply can’t reproduce accurately.

Sublimation means effectively unlimited colour

Sublimation printing works completely differently from screen printing as a physical process. It’s a dye-transfer process that can reproduce full-colour, photo-realistic designs with gradients, shading, and essentially unlimited colours, since it’s not building up ink layer by layer through separate screens at all. This is why sublimation is the standard choice for the kind of complex, all-over, richly coloured patterns increasingly common on golf and performance apparel today, designs that would be prohibitively expensive or simply impossible to achieve with screen printing’s colour-by-colour cost structure holding them back.

Embroidery is a completely different constraint altogether

Embroidery isn’t printing at all in the technical sense. It’s thread, physically stitched in place by a machine, and it has its own limitations that have nothing to do with ink or dye whatsoever. Very fine detail and tiny text don’t translate well into stitching no matter how precise the machine is. And while embroidery can technically use many thread colours in one design, each one adds real machine time and cost to the finished order. Embroidered logos are typically simplified compared to a printed version of the same design, specifically to work within what stitching can accurately reproduce on fabric without losing clarity.

Why this needs deciding before design starts, not after

A pattern designed freely with rich gradients and dozens of subtle colour variations, intended for screen printing, either needs a real redesign to reduce it to a workable colour count, or needs to switch to sublimation to be reproduced the way it was originally envisioned and approved. Knowing your production method upfront lets a designer build the pattern correctly the first time, instead of discovering a mismatch after the design’s already been approved and everyone involved has moved on to other priorities.

What to tell a designer before you order anything at all

Simply stating the intended production method, this will be screen printed, this is going through sublimation, this needs to work as an embroidered logo, is enough for a designer to make the right calls on colour count and detail level from the very first concept presented, instead of building something that needs reworking once it hits an actual production quote from a supplier.

A cost tip worth knowing before you finalize anything

If a screen-printed design is creeping past six colours during development, ask your designer whether a couple of similar shades can merge into one without hurting the overall look. It’s often a small compromise that saves a real amount of money on every single unit produced across a full order, especially at larger volumes where that per-unit saving adds up significantly.

How to decide when you’re torn between two methods

If your design could reasonably work with either screen printing or sublimation, weigh order size against colour complexity as the deciding factor. Smaller orders with simple, few-colour designs usually favour screen printing on cost. Larger orders or anything with rich, photo-realistic colour usually favour sublimation despite its different cost structure, which becomes more efficient at scale.

Why this decision benefits from being made early, not late

Colour count and production method form a foundation the rest of the design builds on top of, similar to how a house’s foundation shapes everything constructed above it. Changing this decision midway through a project usually means revisiting most of the work already completed, which is exactly why it deserves a firm answer before the first concept even gets sketched out on paper or on screen.

A practical way to visualize the cost difference

Picture two identical designs, one built with three flat colours for screen printing, one built with a full photographic gradient for sublimation. The screen-printed version costs less per unit at small quantities because setup is simple, but that cost stays roughly flat per colour regardless of order size. The sublimation version costs more per unit at very small quantities but scales more efficiently as order size grows, since the complexity of the design doesn’t add incremental cost the way each extra screen printing colour does.

What to do if you’re not sure your supplier can handle your colour count

Before finalizing a design with a specific colour count, confirm directly with your actual printer or embroiderer what they can realistically handle for your production method and budget. Suppliers vary in their equipment and expertise, and a quick confirmation call prevents a beautifully designed pattern from hitting an unexpected production limitation partway through the ordering process, after real time and enthusiasm have already gone into a specific creative direction everyone was excited about.

The core idea worth carrying forward

Colour count isn’t just an artistic choice, it’s tied directly to the physical production method behind the finished product. Treating it that way from the very first conversation leads to smoother, more predictable results every time.

Tell your designer the production method up front and the design gets built to actually work with it from day one of the project.

Harinda Fernando

Former photographer, now a full-time photo editor and web developer. Edits wedding, portrait and product galleries in Lightroom Classic for clients in 49 countries. About me

Planning a polo or golf shirt?

Print-ready designs with front and back mockups, from $10.

See polo design packages
Get 3 free edits WhatsApp